SHALWAR KAMEEZ IN PAKISTAN

FATIMA AZEEM

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18TH CENTURY WOMEN'S DRESS

Womens dress at this period was less extravagant but showed an even more drastic break with the past. Panniers and bustles and corsets were all abandoned, as were also the rich materials, instead women wore a "roben chemise", which did indeed look like an undergarment, it consisted of white high-waisted muslim cambric or calico garment falling to the feet and sometimes so transparent that it was necessary to wear white or pink, tights underneath. Heelless slippers contributed to the effect of Greek dress. Hair dressing was simplified with a similar intention, but the effect was somewhat spoilt by the plume of ostrich feathers which it was fashionable to stick in the hair.

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DEHYDRATION

Diarrhoea is the second leading cause of death among children under the age of five, after pneumona. Worldwide, over two million children die each year due to diarrhoeal diseases, two-thirds of whom live in developing countries.

Diarrhoea accounts for spproximately 23 per cent of all deaths among children between the ages of zero to five with 80 percent of these deaths occurring in the first two years of life.

one of the many factors that increase the risk of childhood disrrhoea is the faliure to breastfeed exclusively for the first few months of life Breastfeeding provides a natural protection and immunity against diarrhoea in children. Studies have shown that children who are exclusively breastfed during the first few minths of life are less prone to diarrhoea.

Low birth weight and malnourishment also contribute to diarrhoea, since these can decrease immunity among children and delay the recovery process. Children with low immunity are more prone recurring eposides of dirrhoea, which

FROM 1800 To 1850 A.D.

One thinks perhaps at no period between primitive times and the 1920's had women worn so little as they wore in the early years of nineteenth century. All female attire (costumes) seemed to have been designed for hot climates, though the climate of Europe was very cold. Women wore ten times more clothes in 1800's

FIG. YEAR 1817

In French and England, the leaders in fashion the most popular women dress was like a negligee, a gown made of this almost transparent material which reached to the ankles but

FIG. CUT 4 w41cOAT - YEAR 1810

The French also used shawls and since they were at war with England and England ruled Kashmir, so it was difficult for the French to import shawls from Kashmir they started manufacturing similar shawls in their own country.
In England, cashmere shawls imitation was also produced in "Paisley" motif and design. It was considered the status symbol by fashionable ladies and formed an essential part of every women's wardrobe.

FIG. YEAR 1820

1850 TO 1900 A.D

Times till 1850 had been difficult, we may call them hungry times as compared to 1851 ad onwards, when life became prosperous.
The year of revolution 1848 had resulted in the defeat of ule leftist powers all over Europe. In some countries this had resulted in centralized dictatorship, but in England and France it was really the triumph of the upperclass. The supporters of Napoleon III were bankers, Industrialists and capitalists.
In 1851, a great exhibition was held which demonstrated new kind of technologies, and gave hope (a misguided hope as it turned out) and a new era of peace and universal brother hood was about to begin.
Trade and commerce were flourishing. Real estate and property business was at its peak for ten years and an immense level of construction activity took place.

Coming back to our subject; increasing prosperity meant an increasing elaboration in dress. Skirts continued to expand and for the first half of the decade the desired effect was obtained by wearing underneath them a large number of petticoats.
This was like carrying a lot of weight, and when it became intolerable, finally in 1856 they were replaced by a cage crinoline or hooped petticoat.

FIG. MRS BLOOMER - YEAR 1851

An American lady Mrs. Bloomer in 1851 had tried to reform the dress but her effort was met with lots of hostility and she returned to America.

In 1822 a landmark fashion change was noticed in female dress

In 1822 a landmark fashion change was noticed in female dress, the waist which had been high for a quarter of a century, now resumed its normal position.
The essential lines of female costume during 1840's may be summarized here.The waist was low, and the lines of decoration on the bodice were designed to make it look even more so. The sleeves were either tight or had a bulge over the lower arm, the skirts were long and full. Bodies and skirt were usually made in one, with a back fastening by means of hooks and eyes, but from the middle of the decade it was possible to have a jacket bodice separate from the skirt. The jacket bodice was close fitting and buttoned down the front, which looked like a men's waistcoat and was sometimes a separate garment and sometimes joined to the jacket

FIG : YEAR 1831

Skirts were made to standout with lining, and sometimes there was an additional woolen lining added to the upper part of the skirt at the back. Many petticoats were worn and a teacosy effect was emphasized by the use of a small bustle made of horse hair.

There were four types of dresses used by ladies

1. The Pelisse robe
2. The redingote,
3. The round dress
4. The peignoir.

The pelisse-robe was worn indoors in the morning, the redingote was used as a walking dress and the rather more decorated round dress was worn in the afternoon. The peignoir was an informal dress worn only in the morning.Evening dresses were sleeveless, off the shoulder either straight across or with a slight dip in the middle

CRINOLINE SLIPS TO THE BACA' - YEAR 1860

The crinoline was not a moral and decent dress and the period in which it reached its peak, Second Empire France was not a moral period either. Crinoline moved uncontrolled, thrown from side to side, it was like wearing a restless balloon. At that time it was considered immoral if a women's ankles and legs showed under the garment and when one carried a crinoline, its movements were sometimes very embarrassing.

In 1860's, the crinoline slipped to the back, and with the defeat of France in 1870, the crinoline was also defeated out of fashion.

MEDICAL NOTES

Lip
service

Most children Start speaking fluently by the age of six or seven. It is only about five per cent of children who have diffi­culties in some aspects of the spoken language. These children are said to have specific language impair­ment, says a recent issue of the New England Journal of Medicine. This defect was found to be hereditary. Children with de­fective speech most likely have an elder in the family with the same disorder and, in case of twins it is possible that both may have the problem. Many susceptible areas have been identified in the brain and this has brought up the question as to which genes are involved. Since all the speech defects are not the same, the causes that have been proposed in­clude deficits in short-term hearing memory, sequencing of hearing and rapid process­ing. Children with differentspeech disorders can belong to different genetic types. They may have difficulty in repeat­ing some particular words due to a short-term memory impair­ment or may have pronouncing disabilities- Others may have difficulty in coordinating be­tween hearing and speech when asked to repeat some spoken words. Such children ark classed as having speech dys°fluencv, dyspraxia or stut­ter. In 1990 some researchers made an attempt to discover the gene that causes speech defects when they came across a British family with three gen­erations affected with speech dyspraxia. They also had low IQ level and learning disorders. It was identified that F'OXY2 protein which had many targets in the brain, suppressed a gene which lead to language im­pairment. It is difficult to exclusively identify the cause for different clinical pictures of speech dis­orders and the relationship with other neurological defi­cits. How genetic and environ­mental factors affect language and language disorders is still not fully understood.

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