1850 TO 1900 A.D

Times till 1850 had been difficult, we may call them hungry times as compared to 1851 ad onwards, when life became prosperous.
The year of revolution 1848 had resulted in the defeat of ule leftist powers all over Europe. In some countries this had resulted in centralized dictatorship, but in England and France it was really the triumph of the upperclass. The supporters of Napoleon III were bankers, Industrialists and capitalists.
In 1851, a great exhibition was held which demonstrated new kind of technologies, and gave hope (a misguided hope as it turned out) and a new era of peace and universal brother hood was about to begin.
Trade and commerce were flourishing. Real estate and property business was at its peak for ten years and an immense level of construction activity took place.

Coming back to our subject; increasing prosperity meant an increasing elaboration in dress. Skirts continued to expand and for the first half of the decade the desired effect was obtained by wearing underneath them a large number of petticoats.
This was like carrying a lot of weight, and when it became intolerable, finally in 1856 they were replaced by a cage crinoline or hooped petticoat.

FIG. MRS BLOOMER - YEAR 1851

An American lady Mrs. Bloomer in 1851 had tried to reform the dress but her effort was met with lots of hostility and she returned to America.

In 1822 a landmark fashion change was noticed in female dress

In 1822 a landmark fashion change was noticed in female dress, the waist which had been high for a quarter of a century, now resumed its normal position.
The essential lines of female costume during 1840's may be summarized here.The waist was low, and the lines of decoration on the bodice were designed to make it look even more so. The sleeves were either tight or had a bulge over the lower arm, the skirts were long and full. Bodies and skirt were usually made in one, with a back fastening by means of hooks and eyes, but from the middle of the decade it was possible to have a jacket bodice separate from the skirt. The jacket bodice was close fitting and buttoned down the front, which looked like a men's waistcoat and was sometimes a separate garment and sometimes joined to the jacket

FIG : YEAR 1831

Skirts were made to standout with lining, and sometimes there was an additional woolen lining added to the upper part of the skirt at the back. Many petticoats were worn and a teacosy effect was emphasized by the use of a small bustle made of horse hair.

There were four types of dresses used by ladies

1. The Pelisse robe
2. The redingote,
3. The round dress
4. The peignoir.

The pelisse-robe was worn indoors in the morning, the redingote was used as a walking dress and the rather more decorated round dress was worn in the afternoon. The peignoir was an informal dress worn only in the morning.Evening dresses were sleeveless, off the shoulder either straight across or with a slight dip in the middle

CRINOLINE SLIPS TO THE BACA' - YEAR 1860

The crinoline was not a moral and decent dress and the period in which it reached its peak, Second Empire France was not a moral period either. Crinoline moved uncontrolled, thrown from side to side, it was like wearing a restless balloon. At that time it was considered immoral if a women's ankles and legs showed under the garment and when one carried a crinoline, its movements were sometimes very embarrassing.

In 1860's, the crinoline slipped to the back, and with the defeat of France in 1870, the crinoline was also defeated out of fashion.

MEDICAL NOTES

Lip
service

Most children Start speaking fluently by the age of six or seven. It is only about five per cent of children who have diffi­culties in some aspects of the spoken language. These children are said to have specific language impair­ment, says a recent issue of the New England Journal of Medicine. This defect was found to be hereditary. Children with de­fective speech most likely have an elder in the family with the same disorder and, in case of twins it is possible that both may have the problem. Many susceptible areas have been identified in the brain and this has brought up the question as to which genes are involved. Since all the speech defects are not the same, the causes that have been proposed in­clude deficits in short-term hearing memory, sequencing of hearing and rapid process­ing. Children with differentspeech disorders can belong to different genetic types. They may have difficulty in repeat­ing some particular words due to a short-term memory impair­ment or may have pronouncing disabilities- Others may have difficulty in coordinating be­tween hearing and speech when asked to repeat some spoken words. Such children ark classed as having speech dys°fluencv, dyspraxia or stut­ter. In 1990 some researchers made an attempt to discover the gene that causes speech defects when they came across a British family with three gen­erations affected with speech dyspraxia. They also had low IQ level and learning disorders. It was identified that F'OXY2 protein which had many targets in the brain, suppressed a gene which lead to language im­pairment. It is difficult to exclusively identify the cause for different clinical pictures of speech dis­orders and the relationship with other neurological defi­cits. How genetic and environ­mental factors affect language and language disorders is still not fully understood.

wall paper

THIS WALL PAPPERS IS

PAKISTANI MODELS.

HAIR STYLE WITH THE DRESS FORM

IMPORTANT NOTE 1870 's also saw voluminous and luxurious dressing. Sewing machine was also invented and the aniline dyes were also introduced and all kinds of bright colours came into fashion. It became fashionable to wear blouses and skirts of different colours.
The bonet gave way to hats, very small hats perched over the top of the head on top of a mass of hair in curls or plaits, mostly wigs. The shape of hair styled in shape of the dress which were mysteriously draped with arranged trimmings mostly one sided and curiously fastened in the back.

FIG:HAIR STYLE WITH THE DRESS FORM

WOMEN WEARING BUSTLES

WOMEN WEARING BUSTLES

By 1894 the bicycle had become immenselypopular among both sexes, this made it inevitable that some kind of bifurcated

garmen

t should be worn by ladies, since it was impossible to ride a bicycle in a skirt especially

 heavily Laced and with a long trail

Divided skirt was one solution and so were baggy knickerbockers (Pants) called "bloomers". It created quite an excitement but finally women succeeded in wearing the jacket, skirt and shirt

waisters and tailored suit came in vogue

ridiculed, discouraged and scorned by many at the time, but the movement did eventually achieve its aims as women began to lead more active lives and rigid corsets became unfashionable.

IMPORTANT NOTE Bicycle was becoming more a useful mode of commuting among men and women everyday. Special dresses were designed for this purpose in 1878 to 1880. There is little difference between male costume in the 1880s and in the 1890's except for the increasing use of the informal attire. Trousers in the 1890's were of the peg-top variety and dashing young men began to wear them with turn-ups. These still however were looked with disfavour, but one of the English law maker used them in the house of commons in 1893. The bustle worn by women finally disappeared in 1890's. Dresses now were smooth over the hips and made to fit more snugly