FROM 1800 To 1850 A.D.

One thinks perhaps at no period between primitive times and the 1920's had women worn so little as they wore in the early years of nineteenth century. All female attire (costumes) seemed to have been designed for hot climates, though the climate of Europe was very cold. Women wore ten times more clothes in 1800's

FIG. YEAR 1817

In French and England, the leaders in fashion the most popular women dress was like a negligee, a gown made of this almost transparent material which reached to the ankles but

FIG. CUT 4 w41cOAT - YEAR 1810

The French also used shawls and since they were at war with England and England ruled Kashmir, so it was difficult for the French to import shawls from Kashmir they started manufacturing similar shawls in their own country.
In England, cashmere shawls imitation was also produced in "Paisley" motif and design. It was considered the status symbol by fashionable ladies and formed an essential part of every women's wardrobe.

FIG. YEAR 1820

1850 TO 1900 A.D

Times till 1850 had been difficult, we may call them hungry times as compared to 1851 ad onwards, when life became prosperous.
The year of revolution 1848 had resulted in the defeat of ule leftist powers all over Europe. In some countries this had resulted in centralized dictatorship, but in England and France it was really the triumph of the upperclass. The supporters of Napoleon III were bankers, Industrialists and capitalists.
In 1851, a great exhibition was held which demonstrated new kind of technologies, and gave hope (a misguided hope as it turned out) and a new era of peace and universal brother hood was about to begin.
Trade and commerce were flourishing. Real estate and property business was at its peak for ten years and an immense level of construction activity took place.

Coming back to our subject; increasing prosperity meant an increasing elaboration in dress. Skirts continued to expand and for the first half of the decade the desired effect was obtained by wearing underneath them a large number of petticoats.
This was like carrying a lot of weight, and when it became intolerable, finally in 1856 they were replaced by a cage crinoline or hooped petticoat.

FIG. MRS BLOOMER - YEAR 1851

An American lady Mrs. Bloomer in 1851 had tried to reform the dress but her effort was met with lots of hostility and she returned to America.

In 1822 a landmark fashion change was noticed in female dress

In 1822 a landmark fashion change was noticed in female dress, the waist which had been high for a quarter of a century, now resumed its normal position.
The essential lines of female costume during 1840's may be summarized here.The waist was low, and the lines of decoration on the bodice were designed to make it look even more so. The sleeves were either tight or had a bulge over the lower arm, the skirts were long and full. Bodies and skirt were usually made in one, with a back fastening by means of hooks and eyes, but from the middle of the decade it was possible to have a jacket bodice separate from the skirt. The jacket bodice was close fitting and buttoned down the front, which looked like a men's waistcoat and was sometimes a separate garment and sometimes joined to the jacket

FIG : YEAR 1831

Skirts were made to standout with lining, and sometimes there was an additional woolen lining added to the upper part of the skirt at the back. Many petticoats were worn and a teacosy effect was emphasized by the use of a small bustle made of horse hair.

There were four types of dresses used by ladies

1. The Pelisse robe
2. The redingote,
3. The round dress
4. The peignoir.

The pelisse-robe was worn indoors in the morning, the redingote was used as a walking dress and the rather more decorated round dress was worn in the afternoon. The peignoir was an informal dress worn only in the morning.Evening dresses were sleeveless, off the shoulder either straight across or with a slight dip in the middle

CRINOLINE SLIPS TO THE BACA' - YEAR 1860

The crinoline was not a moral and decent dress and the period in which it reached its peak, Second Empire France was not a moral period either. Crinoline moved uncontrolled, thrown from side to side, it was like wearing a restless balloon. At that time it was considered immoral if a women's ankles and legs showed under the garment and when one carried a crinoline, its movements were sometimes very embarrassing.

In 1860's, the crinoline slipped to the back, and with the defeat of France in 1870, the crinoline was also defeated out of fashion.